In Berlin last week, a huge celebration occurred which brought out thousands of people as they celebrated the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. Prominent leaders from around the world made an effort to attend and join in the celebration as the west marked a time in history of liberation, celebration, and above all change. The streets were alive with music and people joining together to remember what happened here 20 years ago and the prospect of a continuing and peaceful future. At the same time in another world capital, the streets were wet and icy from the melting snow which had roared through like a bear the night before. The weather was significantly colder and gray as people hurried on their way to work or home. You would never know that a celebration of such a historic and significant event was occurring elsewhere. While the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall reflected back on the course of positive change in the western world, here it also reflected on how things either changed for the worse or didn’t even change at all. Here, life remains tough and the people are in a constant mode to just survive. While some parts did show great prosperity, others showed decline, depression, and corruption. Here, it is hard to celebrate. Here, it is easy to feel as though the world has forgotten how you seemed to stay behind as they moved forward. No one ever really speaks about how the fall affected the east. No one really knows what happened afterwards here in Moscow.
Last week I had the great opportunity to return to the city that served as my home for 3 years. When I lived in Moscow, I was working as a Director of Studies and a certified teacher of English for a private British school. Now I was returning for a different reason altogether; research for my master’s thesis. My master’s thesis idea was solidified in Strasbourg after our visit to the European Court of Human Rights. I knew that I wanted to concentrate on human rights and democracy, and of course focus on Eastern Europe. Gradually, the finalized idea moved to the process of democratization through human rights on the institutional and aggregate levels. While there are plenty of excellent sources here in Strasbourg, I wanted more. I made the decision to go back to Moscow to try and meet with organizations that worked or had experience in both areas. Not only that, but the short distance and low cost was too much to pass up in order to catch up with one of my favorite places in the world.
The trip was a success! I managed to meet with two exceptional groups in Moscow including the recently awarded group MEMORIAL. MEMORIAL is a Russian human rights NGO which was recently awarded the Sakharov Prize for Freedom of Thought by the European Parliament for their hard and fearless work and in memory of their colleague, Natalia Estemirova, who was murdered this past summer in the Chechen region of Russia. The prize will be given to them in a formal ceremony here in Strasbourg next month. They allowed me the honor to sit with one of their lawyers who also works with bringing forward complaints to the European Court of Human Rights in Strasbourg for about two hours. The lawyer was able to answer my questions regarding the more institutional aspects of my thesis. The other group was a German organization, The Friedrich Naumann Foundation for Freedom. This organization was able to address my questions regarding the aggregate side of my thesis ideas as part of their mission is to create dialogue and forums for the people to help them realize that they do not have to stay silent with regards to human rights and democracy in Eastern Europe. I came out of both organizations loaded with useful information and a new energy to continue with my thesis. When I wasn’t doing work in Moscow, I was able to catch up with old friends, former colleagues and the city itself that was my home for so long.
I’m not sure who said it, but I once heard a quote in Russia which translates as “if you want to truly know and understand how you’ve changed, go back to a place which hasn’t.” In the two years that I have been away, Moscow has changed very little. Yet this trip served as a reminder of why I love this part of the world and studying it. It has helped to re-spark my interest and has instilled a new feeling of inspiration and eagerness to go forward. While it may be evident that many things in Russia and most of Eastern Europe have changed little in the last 20 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall, there are people within it that see the potential and refuse to give up. It is this element of the human spirit that I find truly impressive and poignant. Without the bravery of such men and women, the world would be stuck in an atmosphere reflecting on what could have been rather than on what could be.
-Posted by Veronica Armendariz















1. Alsatian Wine. Red or white, it’s just good.
2. Fresh warm chocolate croissants for breakfast every Sunday.
3. Espresso!
4. Gelato
5. Downtown Strasbourg
6. Our coordinator, Willi!
7. The outdoor French Markets
8. Our French teacher
9. Castles
10. And finally…. Fifi, the small-old-frail-and-fat-but-vicious dog! She lives in a restaurant downtown called ”Au Canon.” She just loves to say hello to us! She especially loves Katie….